Photo 1: Accucraft 'Ruby'
Author Charles W. Walters
(Photo's used with manufacturer's permission)
Just as a carpenter needs a good quality saw to cut wood, an artist needs a well made paint brush to paint pictures and a doctor needs an accurate sphygmomanometer (say that three times fast) to take your blood pressure, you need a quality made and reliable engine to get started and enjoy the hobby of small scale live steaming. Why, you may ask, can't I just buy the engine that looks good to me? Because there is nothing more disheartening than investing money into something only to find out it does not work as expected or is more complex than you thought it would be or won't run in your garden because your curve radius is not big enough. This can be very frustrating and often leads people to give up to easily and can leave a bad taste in their mouths and a sizeable whole in their wallets.
The aim of this article is not to suggest any one engine is better than any other, rather to present a set of criteria that you should think about when buying your first live steam engine. Reference to any one live steam engine will be made simply to let the reader know what is available, sample costs and features. Included at the end of this article is a list of manufacturers that make engines that fit into what I call 'entry level engines'. Many have websites and email and would be very happy to answer any questions you may have.
Below is a list of the factors you should consider when choosing your first engine. We will look at each aspect individually and no one factor is more important than any other so they will be presented in random order.
Photo 1: Accucraft 'Ruby'
Cost
There are two ways to think about this aspect of consideration. While it would be nice if cost never had to play a part in buying anything, the reality of the situation for most of us is, that money does drive our decisions. Gauge 1 live steam engines can range in price from $300 to in excess of $20,000. Most entry-level gauge 1 engines will be less than $800 in price. This means you can get started in the live-steam hobby for about the same cost as one good electric large-scale engine.
A good rule of thumb I have used when helping beginners get started in the hobby is to set up a budget for the engine itself, some needed accessories to get started with and a budget line for ongoing expenses, such as gas, parts and oils. After you find out what a fantastic hobby this can be, you can then start saving up for your next engine.
Photo 2: Roundhouse 'Millie'
Engine Accessories
To start off this section of consideration, perhaps a short vocabulary lesson is appropriate. These are terms that you will see, hear and read about when folks discuss live steam engines.
There are many accessories that can be added to a new live steam engine. Witness the list above. Some of these features are standard and some of them come as extra purchases. All of the engines mentioned in this article will come with a safety valve, steam oil lubricator and steam regulator as standard. The reversing lever is standard on most engines mentioned here except the 'Basic Series' Roundhouse engines. These engines are controlled by a push in the desired direction or travel from the user. On all gas (butane) fired engines the gas regulator and gas filler valve are also standard. The I.P. Engineering "Jane" (see photo #3) is fired using alcohol and the flow is controlled with a valve from the alcohol holding tank.
The rest of the accessories, the radio control fittings, pressure gauge, water to-up valve are accessories that make life nicer, but are not necessary.
Photoo 3: I.P. Engineering 'Jane'
Appearance
"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder". A great saying that I try to live by. This is where you choose your engine based on what appeals to you or what fits the railroad era you are modeling. None of the entry-level engines discussed here represent a real prototype engine. They are rather, a representation of a generic loco that might be found on any railroad anywhere around the world. The scales of these locos will vary, but for the most part they are approximetly16mm, which is about 1/19 scale. Some of the engines, such as 'Jane' and 'Millie' come without a full cab. You have to purchase the rear of the cab unit separately (see photo #2). These manufacturers also offer other add on items to dress up your loco such as brass steam domes and brass rings for the top of the stacks. Choose what you like!
Track Radius and Grade Consideration
One of the nice things about the entry-level engines mentioned in this article is that they will all run on any 45mm track made by any manufacturer in any radius. All of the engines mentioned here are also available to run on 32mm gauge track except the Accucraft 'Ruby'.
Just as in large-scale electric engines, the larger engines usually require a larger track radius. One rule that seems to work is, "The more fixed drivers that an engine has, the larger the radius it will need to run on without binding". Besides the fact that larger engines just look better and more prototypical on the bigger curves. These entry-level engines all have short wheelbases and can run on small radius curves. You will find that as you move away from the entry-level engines and move into the larger engines, such as those made by the Aster company of Japan, you will need much larger curves to run on.
The grade of the railroad must also be considered. Most live steam engines will climb a grade as much as 2 percent with effort, but they really prefer no grade at all. You can build a raised layout with a perfectly level track to run your live steamers on and the grade issue will no longer exist. There is a side benefit as well. Running a live steam engine is a very 'hands-on' hobby and the raised layout helps eliminate all the bending and kneeling that you have to do with a garden layout, (see Photo #4).
Photo 4: Authors Twin Lakes Railway raised steam layout
Type of Fuel Needed for Firing
There are three main types of fuel used in firing a small-scale live steam engine, butane, alcohol (meths) and coal. Coal is generally used by larger gauge one engines and really is for the more experienced live steam enthusiast mainly because it can be somewhat temperamental.
Butane is the most common fuel for the entry-level engines and is the easiest to use. Butane gas can be found in many hunting and camping stores, cigar stores, and even can be purchased by mail order. A can of gas will usually cost about $3.50 for 8 ounces, which will fill a small live steam engine about eight times. Most of the manufacturers warnings supplied with the engines warn against using anything but straight butane or iso-butane and you should always read and follow the manufacturers warnings and directions. However, many live steamers use a mixture of butane and propane in a ratio of 70/30 or 80/20 butane to propane mix. This is mainly due to the fact that straight butane is often harder to find and as a side benefit, it burns better in colder air temperatures. Please check with the manufacturer before attempting to use something other than what the directions say to use.
When using this type of fuel, the cans on butane often do mate directly with the gas filler valve on the engine. An adapter may be needed to attach to the gas can to allow filling of the engine. These gas-filling adapters can be purchased directly from Roundhouse Engineering or any of their dealers. Check out their website for further information.
Alcohol fired engines, such as Jane (see photo #3) use alcohol or as the European call it, meths (methylated spirits, known also as denatured alcohol). This fuel is placed into a holding tank and then gravity fed into a burner. Usually the burner has two or three burner tubes containing wicks. The tubes fill up with alcohol and saturate the wicks allowing them to be ignited. This method is less efficient than gas firing, but is also less expensive. Alcohol burning engines are also much quieter as there is no burner noise.
Both methods do work and each method is enjoyable in it's own right. A forth method of firing, a chemical tablet that can be ignited, has been left out of this discussion because it is this authors opinion this is the least efficient was to fire a loco and often leads to great frustration.
Photo 5: Argyle 'Bantam'
Maintenance
In a latter article, we will cover maintenance of live steam engines more comprehensively, but for purposes of this article the issue will be lightly discussed.
Like any mechanical device manufactured today, live steam engines require attention and maintenance. You do not have to be a mechanical wizard to fix a live steam engine, but some mechanical knowledge helps. General attention will have to be given to the seals, rings, valves and nuts and bolts. Always make sure the nuts and bolts are tight. While the engine is raising steam, check for steam leaks. If a leak is found, tighten the seals where steam is leaking, following the directions that came with engine. Check O-rings periodically for cracks and replace them if necessary. Try to get an extra gas jet and gas filler valve into your parts kit, because you may need them at any time. Make sure to follow the manufacturers directions for lubing the engine. If all else fails, there are many folks that can help you repair your engine. Contact the manufacturer or your dealer to get the name of an authorized factory repair technician.
Manual versus Radio Controlled
This factor of consideration is an important one, but not as relevant with entry-level engines as it is with more expensive mid-level engines. Of the five engines I consider entry-level, only one, the Cheddar Iver, comes with radio control installed as standard. Radio control will be important if you plan to run your engine on a layout with grades. With radio control gear installed, as you approach a grade you can increase the steam to the cylinders to make it up the grade or decrease the steam to slow down the speed going down grade. Without radio control, you will be constantly bending down to adjust the steam regulator and reversing gear. If you are running on a track with no grade, having radio control will strictly be a matter of preference. Many live steam enthusiasts are hands on modelers and prefer to be close to the engine making the constant needed adjustments.
Final Thoughts
Of the five small-scale live steam engines mentioned here, the Roundhouse Millie, Cheddar Iver, Accucraft Ruby, I.P. Engineering's Jane and Argyle's Bantam, no one engine is better than the other. They are all great engines for beginners to start out with. The folks that make these engines are always glad to help out with questions, so don't hesitate to give them a call or send them an email.
The live steam branch of large-scale model railroading is a very exciting and fun branch to be involved with. The folks that run live steam engines are top-notch folks and are always willing to talk about the hobby. Get involved, ask questions and see if you can attend a local steam up and see what the hobby is all about.
In the next issue we will discuss the steam up process and the tools you will need to have in you steaming kit.
Manufacturers List
ACCUCRAFT TRAINS
31112 San Clemente Street
Hayward, CA 94544 USA
Tel: (510) 324-3399
Fax: (510) 324-3366
Sales: (702) 395-8724
Order Fax: (702) 395-8722
info@accucraft.com
http://www.accucraft.com/
I.P.ENGINEERING
46 CARISBROOKE CRESCENT
POOLE
DORSET
BH15 4LD
ENGLAND
TELEPHONE / FAX : (01202) 660304
ivan.prior@virgin.net
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/ipengineering/
Argyle Locomotive Works
241 Belgrave - Gembrook Rd
Clematis VIC 3782, Australia
Phone / Fax +61 3 5968 6573
ABN 40 545 930 409
argyleloco@fhills.hotkey.net.au
http://www.argyleloco.com.au/
Cheddar Models Ltd.
Sharpham Road, Cheddar
Somerset, BS27 3DR
Tel: (01934) 744634
Fax: (01934) 744733
cheddarmodels@msn.com
http://www.modelsteam.co.uk/
Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd.
Units 6-7, Churchill Business Park
Churchill Road
Wheatley
Doncaster
DN1 2TF
ENGLAND
Tel: 01302 328035 (International ++44 1302 328035)
Fax: 01302 761312 (International ++44 1302 761312)
sales@roundhouse-eng.com
http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/