

Scale: 1:20.3 (correct scale for representing 3 foot narrow gauge on gauge 1 track).
Minimum Radius: 48" (will negotiate LGB 1600 curves, but prefers larger radius).
Cylinders: 10mm bore, bronze, "O" ring seals, brass cross heads.
Crankshaft: 1/4" dia. main journals, 2-throw, pinned at cranks, 2 bronze main bearings.
Valves: Slide valves actuated by Stephenson valve gear.
Connecting Rods: Split end rods -- 5/32" journals.
Boiler: "T" configuration. Single flue, gas fired. Fitted with gauge glass, boiler drain plug, safety valve, regulator & bushing for pressure gauge attach ment. All copper, silver soldered, hydro-tested to 120 psi, working pressure 50 psi.
Frame: Brass sections, wood end beams, link & pin couplers, steps, truss rods, 1/16" sheet steel deck.
Trucks: Investment castings & brass sections, 1/4" dia. axles, steel wheels (Delrin inserts on left side), 3:1 gears, slip joints & universal joints.
Bodywork: Cab, roof and bunker are all etched brass sheet.
Fittings: Stack, headlight, dome, bell, and whistle are all investment castings in brass. The builder's plate is etched brass.
Finish: Primer + 2 coats heat-resistant black enamel. Colors are also available.
Options: Whistle & valve, boiler fill valve, pressure gauge w/siphon.
Spare parts kit with fasteners, seals and spare gas jet included.
CARE
& FEEDING OF YOUR LOCOMOTIVE
The Catatonk Shay steam powered model locomotive is a precision
mechanism and should be treated with respect and handled with care.
It is built to last for a long time, but like any precision mechanism
it requires regular cleaning, maintenance and lubrication to deliver
maximum performance and long life.
Use a good grade of machine oil to lubricate all moving parts, and use only a good grade of steam oil in the displacement lubricator. The use of automotive lubricants in the displacement lubricator could damage the steam engine.
Steam oil is very inexpensive when compared to the price of a new locomotive -- use the right lubricant for the job!
Keep your Shay clean, especially the gears and drive train. Microscopic bits of ballast and dirt can eat up gears and bearings in a hurry. We recommend using a spray cleaner/lubricant like WD-40 to clean off the drive train and steam engine bottom end at the end of each running session, or more frequently when running in very dusty, dirty or wet conditions.
Follow that cleaning by lubricating all the moving parts (don't forget the axle bearings) with a good grade of light machine oil before storing the locomotive.
Use only distilled water in the boiler. Real distilled water is cheap, so don't risk fouling the boiler and plumbing with mineral deposits by using water from questionable sources.
Last, but certainly not least, make safety first and foremost when operating this or any other steam locomotive. Steam locomotives of any size are potentially hazardous and should be treated with great respect. A boiler is a pressure vessel and should never be used if it has been damaged in any way. Never adjust the safety valve to exceed factory specified pressures. Never use propane gas in this locomotive, as it may develop dangerously high pressures. Check gas lines regularly for leaks with a soap and water solution. Do not light the burner until any leaks have been corrected. Do not fill the fuel tank near open flames or where other locomotives are operating. Do not light the burner in the same location where you fill the fuel tank. Keep small children away from this locomotive while it is operating, or while it is still hot after completing a run.
PREPARING
YOUR LOCOMOTIVE
Lubrication
First, lubricate all moving parts with a good grade of light machine
oil. Drain all water from the lubricator by loosening the drain plug
under the right hand side of the cab deck and directly below the
lubricator. No need to remove this plug -- just loosen it a turn or
two. Then remove the lubricator filler plug inside the cab on the
right hand side. Once the water has been drained, close the drain
plug and fill the lubricator with a good grade of light or medium
steam oil and replace the filler plug.
IMPORTANT PERFORMANCE TIP.....We have found that locomotive performance can deteriorate quickly if the crosshead guides (one for each cylinder, located behind the "H" shaped part just below the steam cylinders) are not kept well lubricated with a good grade of LIGHT machine oil. Letting them run dry, or using heavy, sticky lubricants, can cause your Shay to lose power very quickly. The use of heavy lubricants on any part of your Shay engine or drive train can also cause a loss of power.
Water
With the locomotive sitting level, remove the dome cover and the
boiler filler plug beneath it, then fill the boiler to the brim and
replace the filler plug. There is no need to remove any water to
allow for steam space, as this is taken care of by the upper portion
of the t-boiler.
Fuel
Fill the fuel tank with butane gas. The fuel tank is inside the cab
on the right hand side, but in warm climates it could be relocated to
the bunker by moving the tank and clip that hold it, and then making
a new copper fuel line to connect the tank to the gas valve.
If you have a problem getting the tank to fill (which may occur when the engine is hot from a run, or has been sitting in the hot sun), you may open the fuel control valve (right front corner of the bunker) slightly until you hear gas escaping through the burner orifice. Fill the tank until you hear liquid entering the orifice.
NEVER FILL THE FUEL TANK AROUND OPERATING LOCOMOTIVES OR NEAR AN OPEN FLAME! NO SMOKING WHILE FILLING THE FUEL TANK !
Once the fuel tank is full, shut off the fuel valve and blow down the smokestack and into the cab and bunker area to clear any accumulation of gas. Remove the locomotive to a safe lighting-up area before proceeding.
OPERATING
YOUR LOCOMOTIVE
Lighting the Burner
To light the burner, open the fuel control valve slightly until you
can just hear a slight hiss of escaping gas. Now apply a spark or
flame to the area just below either side of the smokebox and you
should hear a "POP" as the gas ignites. Be sure that the flame is
burning on the burner and in the flue, and not in the smokebox!
Remove the smokebox front to observe the fire if you are unsure.
CAUTION! The smokebox front will get very hot -- do not attempt to
remove it with bare hands when the burner is lit.
Keep the flame set as low as possible for a minute or two while the burner warms up to operating temperature. Any attempt to open the valve to increase the intensity of the fire at this time could cause the fire to jump from the burner into the smokebox, which could result in a front-end meltdown. Not a desirable situation!
When the burner has warmed up and the flame has stabilized, you may open the gas valve a bit more to speed up the steam raising process. Always check to be sure that the flame is burning on the burner, and not in the smokebox! The steam-raising process could take from 5 to 10 minutes, depending on weather conditions and the temperature of the water in the boiler.
Clearing the Cylinders
Once the pressure gauge indicates 40 lbs. or more (or once the safety
valve lifts) you may open the throttle slightly and begin rocking the
reversing lever between forward and reverse to clear the condensate
in the cylinders. You will gain a feel for this after a run or two,
but it basically consists of moving the reversing lever to the
forward position and leaving it there for a second or two, then
moving it to the reverse position for a second or two, and continuing
this process until the cylinders clear and the engine begins to show
signs of moving a bit in either direction.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FORCE THE LOCOMOTIVE TO MOVE BY PUSHING IT, AS THIS COULD DAMAGE THE DRIVE TRAIN AND STEAM POWER UNIT! A light push with one finger in the appropriate direction as you toggle the reversing lever back and forth will help to speed up the condensate-clearing process, but please don't use brute force.
Off to the Woods!
Within a few seconds the engine will begin to move on its own. When
it is moving smoothly, be sure to turn down the fire to a lower
setting, just high enough to maintain operating pressure. If you
leave it set wide open, you are wasting fuel and water, and you will
shorten the run duration significantly. Typical run duration on this
engine is in the 30 minute range.
Set the reversing lever for the direction desired and set the throttle for the speed desired, and your Shay will trundle around at that speed until it runs out of water or fuel. You can change direction or speed at any time.
Water Level
Be sure to keep an eye on the water glass to ensure that it doesn't
run low on water while the burner is still operating. If you don't
want to extend the duration of the run by adding more water, turn off
the burner when the water level reaches the bottom of the glass. Cut
a small piece of light colored card, such as a business card, and
slip it behind the water gauge glass. This will make it easier to see
the water level.
Extending the Run
If you wish to extend the duration of the run, and if your engine is
fitted with the optional boiler water filler valve, simply remove the
sand dome and plug in the hard plastic line from the supplied water
bottle. Replacement or additional bottles are available via mail
order from Sulphur Springs Steam Models at 314-527-8326.) Pump in
enough water to fill the gauge glass to the top and continue the run.
If the water you are adding is cold, it may cool the boiler water enough to drop steam pressure. It won't take long to regain pressure and continue the run, but adding water more frequently in smaller amounts is a better way to extend the duration of the run without interruptions to raise steam again.
If you wish to add more fuel during a run, always shut off the burner first! Then, making sure to observe all the precautions mentioned on pages 4 & 5 of this manual, refill the tank and relight the burner.
End of the Line
At the completion of the run, we suggest that you take advantage of
the heat and pressure still remaining to clear the contents of the
displacement lubricator. This will also prevent the possibility of
sucking the contents of the lubricator into the boiler when the
boiler cools and a vacuum forms inside.
To clear the lubricator, start by closing the throttle. Open the drain valve on the bottom of the lubricator, then stand clear and open the throttle slightly. The pressure remaining in the boiler will blow out the contents of the lubricator, leaving it ready to fill with steam oil when you prepare for the next run.
The boiler can be drained be removing the drain plug on the lower "T" section of the boiler, then removing the filler plug on top so the contents can drain freely. This is a convenient way to empty the boiler when a locomotive is to be shipped or transported.
DO NOT REMOVE THE BOILER DRAIN PLUG, BOILER FILLER PLUG WHILE THE BOILER IS STILL HOT! REMAINING STEAM OR HOT WATER COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY!
Observe the safety precautions and follow the maintenance and preparation steps outlined in this manual and you will have many hours of pleasure with your Catatonk Shay.